Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Still at Monaco in Coburg--Aug. 24

We had a nice visit with Deven and Raiko at their home in Eugene. We missed Elly because she had previous plans. We spent most of the time visiting outside because I am allergic to cats but it was interesting seeing what he had planted in his yard and is planning to do. His back yard has 2 levels and on the upper level he has the frame of a greenhouse and several raised beds and some are already planted. Because the soil is not real good on the hill he has planted prarie flowers and grasses as well as in some of the front yard. He will put plastic over the frame and enclose it. On the lower level he also has some raised beds for vegetables and around the sides of the house. In the front on one side he has a fence encloser that has berry briars. They make a lot of freezer jams using marionberries, blueberries, and blackberries. We are at the end of the growing season here but I bet his yard is beautiful in the spring and early summer. I love plants and knowing what they are so I really enjoyed his yard tour.

We left and stopped at the grocery near him to pick up a few things and outside they had a large display of organic vegetables and we tried some very small tomatoes and it was like eating candy they were so sweet.

Over the weekend we stayed in the Monaco parking area where they have electricity. One afternoon we drove to a couple of parks and stopped to do some hiking in the Elijah Bristow State Park. It was so good to get out and do some hiking. This is the season for the blackberries to ripen and they are everywhere. All I had to collect some in was a quart ziplock bag but I could have filled a gallon without a problem. These wild briars are everywhere and the wild are always sweeter and tastier than the tame. There are a couple of fields right next to the Monaco and Cummins businesses and around them are they huge briar patches. People from the coaches have been picking them. It is very dry here. There are farms all around this area and when you are driving into the large valleys the sky is hazy. The farmers are out cutting hay and plowing and the dust is rising so I am assuming that accounts for the haze. All the fields except for the fields of broccoli or brussel sprouts are brown as well as the yards. They are waiting for the rains to begin.

On Monday afternoon we drove back to Portland to stay with Penny and then go to my eye Dr. on Tues. a.m. early. We stopped at Camping World on the way up and back to pick up some items. Deven and Raiko arrived at Penny's in the late afternoon/early evening. Raiko was going to stay with Penny and Ray while Deven went on business to Washington State to meet with some mint buyers for the rest of the week. Penny was trying to bribe us to stay and help but we are still dealing with the RV--waiting for an OK from the insurace company to do one last thing.

The report from the eye Dr. was that everything is progressing and he has cut back my medication. He will see me for the last time next week and then I have to see my doctor in either IN or FL in the next few weeks. When I look only thru my left eye it is still blurry but at least it doesn't affect seeing out of the other eye. He says this may take a few months and then I may still not have as good a sight as I had in that one eye but there is nothing I could have done besides cancel our trip or delay our leaving and caught up with them later. That would have meant that we missed a lot and wasted money. Oh well, that's life on the road with a caravan. Caravaning is fun but is not something I would do on a regular basis. After the appointment we went to a beauty school and had my hair trimmed and Bob had the oil changed in the Saturn as well as the air filter which was no surprise considering the dust we were in travelling. We headed back to Coburg and our RV so we are waiting.......

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Time in Portland & around Oregon--Aug.14-18

Bob found a really good deal at the truck stop for washing and putting rainX all over the coach so he and Raymond went and had that done. It certainly looks better. On Saturday evening Penny, Ray, Bob and I went to see the movie Salt and afterwards they showed us around the town. We went into a hotel that has a balcony on the 8th floor outside their bar. It was really beautiful looking at all the lights. While we were in the bar with Penny and Ray there was a guy who came over and asked Bob if she was Judge Judy. She says that she gets that a lot. We went from there to another spot that serves drinks and warm Gorgonzola cheesecake with bread. This was one of the best things I have ever put in my mouth. This was about 11 p.m. We made one more spot that they wanted to show us. It was a good restaurant but not serving by that time but it also had a bar and music and the place was hopping. We just hung around for a few minutes and they said Hi to some people they knew and we went home. Needless to say, the next morning we slept late.

On Sunday I washed clothes and tried to collect all our stuff and put it back in the coach so we could leave on Monday. I've also been going thru old mail but not doing much on the computer. We also drove over to Derek and Mike's house for dinner. We ordered Thai food which was real good and Penny had made a fresh peach cobbler for dessert. I was in the back seat holding it and trying to keep it level and not spill it all the way over. I was so glad to get there and never spilled a bit. I took my computer and Mike showed me how to do a few things with my pictures which really helped me.

I went to the eye Dr. on Mon. morning early and he gave me a good report, but I could already tell that it was getting better. My eye is no longer blurry--thank you Lord--but I will see him again on the 24th to see if maybe I can cut back on the medication I am taking. After getting back to Penny's we hooked up the car and left for Coburg near Eugene for the coach repairs and maintenance. Coburg is the location of one of the manufacturing plants for diesel Monaco coaches and some trailers they make. We also took a tour of the plant and learned about all the new things they are doing since being bought out by Navistar. They started work on our coach on Tues. morning.

Today we went over to the town of Sisters which is toward Bend, Oregon. Dee and Marvin are there and we were going to spend some time with them. It took longer than we expected to get there because one of the roads is a scenic byway and it is really twisty and going up to over 5000 ft. and back down. It was a beautiful drive and we went thru where the Belknap Crater had exploded 1700 years ago and there was all this black lava rock for about 20 miles. We didn't know about it before hand. It was truly something to see and still not much growing throughout the area. They still have some things to do on the coach so we will still be here for a few days because when they are done we go across the road to a Cummins shop to change the oil and filters. We also want to see Deven and his family again and see where they live in Eugene which is very near here.

Saturday, August 14, 2010

Our 1st week in Portland at Penny's--8-10 thru 14

I haven't dropped off the grid just slowed down some. We've had family time which has been super. Deven, Ely and 2yr. old Raiko came back to Portland from a family reunion with her family in Denver and were picked up because their car was here. Derek and Mike came over and we all had a big time catching up and getting to meet the newest member of the family. Mike and Derek also have two large dogs that are just adorable-Portuguese Water Dogs. Raiko is a typically active and curious 2 year old and very verbal. I think the worst part for Deven & Ely is that if he sees any light in the morning he is up and ready to go, be that 5 or 6 a.m. and I don't think he takes naps. He is a real cutey though. Deven and his family had to return home the next day to get organized and back to work.They live in Eugene and we have to go up there for coach maintenance so we will see them and their house then.

Penny fixed Bob the family favorites. One night it was Baba's bean soup and another it was the pasties. The boys (Derek & Mike) came over for pasties also. They are a lot of work to make and no one gets them very often. Last night we went out with Penny and Ray and another couple to Applebees for drinks and appetizers which was very good. Then we went downtown Gresham to the bed races and hung around for awhile. That was fun and on the way home enjoyed seeing the sun set over the Columbia River.

On Tuesday I had an eye Dr. app't. to see what the problem was with my eye. It was my eye infection I had that had cleared up but the last treatment would have been using steroid pills and some drops and the Dr. will not use that if you cannot stay in one place and they can monitor it; therefore, it came back and I have been living with it for 58+ days till we got back here. Now I am on that regimen and that will keep us here for awhile--not sure how long but from one app't. to the next we can travel up to Eugene for the maintenance and do some sightseeing. We will play it by ear.

One full day was taken up trying to clean our dusty, dirty coach. We drove it over to Ray's Vet Clinic parking lot because he was closed, put out the sides and started in--Bob on the outside in the bays and me inside. This was done in between him going to have blood drawn and visitors coming to see the coach, but it broke up the monotony of the work. We left it sit over night and then went and finished the next morning. When Mike and Derek came into the coach to see it after the first day they couldn't believe how big it was. Mike said it smelled good so that made me feel good. That's all for now.

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Yakima,WA to Portland, OR--Aug.9

The sky was clear and it was warming quickly. We didn't leave until about 9:30. Had a beautiful view of Mt. Adams when we left and as we drove on a beautiful, clear view of Mt. Hood at 11,240'. There was also a large windmill farm. Then we crossed the Columbia River--quite large and went up the Columbia River Gorge. There was lots of wind as we went thru the Gorge. The river had lots of white caps and waves but people were windsurfing with boards and kites. It is also a beautiful area. Passed thru The Dalles and Bonneville Dam and Multnomah Falls area and they were working on the other side of the road coming toward us
which was lucky for us because they were really backed up with traffic.

It didn't take long and we arrived at Penny and Ray's, Bob's sister and husband where we will stay for about a week. Had a nice evening with them after Bob and Ray ended up parking our coach out in front of their house on the street.

Oliver to Yakima, WA--Aug. 8

We left Oliver about 7:30 a.m. and just up the road we stopped to spend the rest of our Canadian money. We went into a 7Eleven and bought donuts and cookies for the four of us. About half way to the border out of Oliver was where there had been a landslide just 2 days after we left there on the way north. There had been a lot of rain and a dam up above somewhere had not held due to the government's lack of maintenance. It wiped out 5 houses and vineyards and closed the road in and out of town. The government did accept responsibility and are compensating the homeowners to some degree but they have lost their livelihood for about 7 years as well as everthing they owned.

The border crossing at Oroville was not far for us by that time. On the way into Canada it consisted of a few questions and a look at our passports. Coming back into the states they did that and then had us pull over to the side for them to come in and look inside. He opened one cabinet in the bedroom and the frig. but didn't take anything and on we went. We waited down the road for Ira and Bev who underwent the same thing. The two coaches parted company in Omak, WA because they are headed east to their home in PA. They have a stick house to go back to.

We have phone service again. Yeah!!! So I began making phone calls to the family. I had missed talking to the kids, cousin and step-dad. We are still into farm and orchard country probably apples. We stopped alongside a river near Chelan to eat and take a nap. The river was busy with boaters. We continued on thru a narrow mountain valley with lots of bikers heading the other direction. This was a Sunday so I suppose there was something big going on because they went on for miles in small groups or singularly. Found a DQ so Bob had to stop. We arrived at our WalMart parking lot in Yakima for the night.

Monday, August 9, 2010

On to Oliver--Aug. 7

It was slightly rainy and 59* when we left The Chasm. We drove Hwy. 97 to 8 to 97c to 5a to Oliver.

Darrell and Linda peeled out first because they had to stop for fuel somewhere so we said goodbye again to them. We left at 7:30 a.m. Ira and Bev were still behind us and they saw Trish and Irv parked at a campground and then later we passed Linda and Darrell getting go-go juice(fuel). The drive was beautful thru area of green pastures and hay fields some green and some with the big round hay bales and hills that have interesting shapes. Took Hwy.8 from Spences Bridge to Merritt and there were some nice pull offs for dry camping thru this area. We went around the mountains and thru the valley it was wonderful. There were Indian Reserves thru there and one was the Shackan Indian Band.

At the end of the valley was the town of Merritt which calls itself the Country Music Capital of Canada. On to 97c and over to Peachland. Somewhere along the way we saw another black bear and then into Okanagan Valley and Lake Okanagan. This whole valley is so beautiful lined with vineyards. We camped again at Desert Gem RV Park in Oliver. At night Bev and Ira grilled a and fixed broccoli while I fixed corn and sliced a loaf of bread and had pecan bites for dessert. We sat and talked for awhile before hitting the sack.

1st day on our own-Vanderhoof to The Chasm--Aug.6

Marvin and Dee left about 5 a.m. I put an envelope with a note in it on their door window but he didn't see it until he was already down the road and the note had fallen out. He thought it might have been something the staff put on there and was worried. We stayed for the staff prepared breakfast of hotcakes and the owners brought over a warm coffee cake made of saskatoons (like blueberries, I think) and boy was it good. We said our goodbyes and left and it so happened that Linda and Darrell left before us and Ira and Bev were behind us and we were all going the same direction--down Hwy. 97--so we travelled together the rest of the day. It was fun. Bob and Ira and Darrell enjoyed talking on the CB.

We saw a helicopter with a water bucket going to or from a fire. We went in and out of smoke pretty much all day. There are quite a few old restored trucks and cars on the road. We saw an early 50's chevy pulling a small old camper all painted a light green to match. Saw 2 hawks sitting on posts and one sitting on a hay bale, a farm raising a number of white turkeys and a llama. There are more farms with cows,horses and lots of round hay bales and more growing. There is lots of logging going on here also. There are no mile markers along the road. This used to be a wagon road, I guess, and they had roadhouses so they name them by the mile. They are different distances apart maybe 30 maybe 10 but that is how you find out where you are using the Milepost.

I guess Linda and Darrell stopped for fuel somewhere and they ended up behind Ira and Bev so we had our own caravan. We stopped in Quesnel at a train depot for lunch in our coaches and before we know it here came Jim and Evelyn. They missed the turn so they turned around and came back and talked for awhile. Then Jeff, Noreen, Bill and Marilyn passed us in their rigs. I think they are also going to the Rally in Redmond, OR like Dee and Marvin. We drove on to Williams Lake and the 3 coaches had to stop for a DQ. There was lots of construction on this road. I also saw our first deer grazing on the roadside--he never moved.

Just below the 70 mile house we cut off to go the "The Chasm" supposedly a Provential Park. I am not sure what those are but this was just a pull off on a loop road. This is where we were going to spend the night and it was beautiful. We drove down first to make sure we could all get in there and then used the CB to call in the others. After we parked other people came just to view the area. It was dug out by a receeding glacier and waterfall and is now quite a sight. Bev brought out hamburgers to grill and buns and the rest of us added potato salad, macaroni salad, chips, dip, cheese, pickles and condiments. As we were sitting on the edge of this chasm having dinner and talking we heard something near the edge and thought it was an animal but it was a small rock slide. A little later we heard a loud and long noise from the other side, another rock slide. It sounded like a glacier calving. That was really something. There were a couple of other small ones before we finally broke up the party and went to bed. During the night it rained a little but I never heard a sound.

Sunday, August 8, 2010

Smithers to Vanderhoof--Aug. 5

This is the last day of our caravan and it is only 169 miles to Vanderhoof so Dee, Marvin, Bob and I went to eat at the Capri Steakhouse in Smithers for breakfast. We finally left town at 8:30 which is a late start for us.

Our first stop was at the Visitor's Center in Houston to view the World's Largest Fly Fishing Rod which a local man had made and then inside was a huge stuffed grizzly. Several other people also stopped because it was right beside the road and ample turn around parking. We went on to a rest area but not because we were tired. I had read about it in the Milepost. There was a large rock cairn there and imbedded in the center was a large rock that came from Tintagel Castle in England where it was supposed that King Arthur of the Round Table was born. How and why it came to be there is still to be discovered but of course I took a picture.

More farm country and a interesting description of a rest area said it was "savory"--go figure. Some of their gas stations they call gas bars up here.

We stayed at a really nice campground called Dave's RV Park. These people were super and their showers were free and everything was so clean and well kept. Several of the girls rushed into their laundry room and did their clothes and the lady even did laundry in her own house for some of them. The next morning she brought out a large cake roll pan with warm coffee cake made with her own berries. How nice is that.

That evening we carpooled into town to a restaurant for our last meal-J & S Restaurant. It was either a really good roast beef dinner which turned out looking real good or the german meal and I too the german--big mistake. I do not like german and it wasn't that hot and it is all starch. After dessert--sundaes which were good we had our remembrances. Each couple had to get up and tell what was most memorable and the funniest thing they remember. That was great fun. The wagon master had gifts for each of us-a group picture, a stuffed black bear and something else. Everyone told Marvin and Dee goodby as they left the restaurant because nobody was getting up at 5am to say hey the next morning. We all went back to our coaches and eventually went to bed after getting ourselves and our coaches ready for the next day.

From Stewart/Hyder to Smithers--Aug. 4th

I have not been able to blog since the 4th and it is now the 8th and I am writing this from my notes so it won't be as good, sorry. We left for Smithers today and it was about 57* and slightly foggy. There was a mist or fog over the water which was neat looking and the sun is coming up later and going down earlier now. The days are shortening up north. One of the things most of us just couldn't get enough of was the glaciers and we were seeing them again as we left Stewart. I never knew there were so many. We went over the Nass River Bridge across the gorge and it was over 400' down--what a sight.

We saw a black bear crossing the road and the lakes and small ponds are so beautiful but you just can't swim in them because it is too cold--it is such a shame to have all this water and not be able to use it except to fish and boat for fishing. We took a side road and went to this little native community called Gitanyoul. It has one of the largest concentration of standing totem poles in British Columbia (28). They are not all painted and everything like you see because they are years and years old and the paint is gone but they are still quite a sight and each so different. The museum was closed but we are glad we stopped. One or two others stopped but all they could do was complain to our tail gunner, who told us about it, that the museum was closed. Some people just can't appreciate things. Many of the coaches in the group never stopped to see any things along the way unless it was right beside the road. They just drove from point A to point B each day and then went on our guided tours and some sightseeing around the towns. There was another native village that we couldn't stop at named Kitwanga. Originally they lived on "the grease trail" called that because they were a trading people and traded their candlefish oil for other things. We also stopped at the town of Old Hazelton which had a lot of old buildings and ate at "The Trading Post Cafe" which had just opened in July--lovely building with lots of old pictures of the area and the people with captions, a wheel out of a ship, stools at the bar and holding up the bar were rifles(very interesting) and the food was delicious. After we left some of the others went there and also enjoyed it. Also there was a reproduced Ksan native village. While the boys slept Dee and I went in to take a tour of the buildings and it was really interesting. We got to go in all five buildings and inside there were items appropriate to what it was used for and they played an audio which talked about it. Near the end of our driving we stopped along the road at Mouricetown by the river to see natives fishing using their huge round nets and weirs.

We came out into farm country and it was such a surprise and a joy to see something that was familiar. The wilderness was spectacular but to finally see something you could put your mind around was really nice. We camped at Riverside Golf and RV Park and had our briefing for the next day.

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

To Stewart B.C./Hyder,AK--Aug. 2 & 3rd

This was a beautiful day but not a lot to stop and see. We drove to Stewart B.C down the Cassier Hwy. thru a valley with mountains and streams and lakes on either side at one time and another. Went over Gnat Pass Summit--probably appropriately named but we were not outside to find out. Saw lots of ponds with the fog lifting over them, quite a lovely sight and at one I saw something crossing the pond leaving a wake behind it--possibly a muskrat or beaver, I figure. Later on right in the middle of the road were two horses taking their half down the middle and then two others beside the road really enjoying the fireweed flowers. The ones in the road finally moved slightly to the left but not much. That day Dee and Marvin saw several bears but they were ahead of us so usually we never saw them except for two black bear cubs we saw scurring into the brush beside the road. Another time there was a ptarmagin standing absolutely still right beside the road and he never moved as we both passed by him or her. We saw some beautiful waterfalls and as we came into Stewart we got great views of Bear Glacier.

We arrived here fairly early so Bob and I toured the town a little in the car, took pictures of the entrance signs and a St. Mary's Community Church building and found the post office to mail some cards. We went on to Hyder, AK which is right next door but you cross the border so to get back into Stewart in Canada you have to keep your passport with you all the time. We went over and visited with the guy in the "Information Center" first and learned that the best place to eat was the bar down the street or "the bus". We also found out that his blind dog can sense bears and chases them off his property after biting them in the butt. The town of Hyder has a population of 63 in this last census. Their sign says on the way out that it is the friendliest little ghost town in Alaska. It certainly isn't much but fun to experience. The bar was not serving food on Monday so we went to "the bus" and yes she cooks in the bus and has outside seating or there is a building right behind if you prefer inside. Her husband catches the salmon and halibut and I think she buys the crabs and shrimp. Some of the others were inside so we joined them and waited to be served because we ordered outside. I had a toasted shrimp sandwich(small pink shrimp in a sauce on a toasted bun with lettuce, tomato and onion)--very good while Bob had fried shrimp and fries. I also had salmon chowder also very good.

After eating we went on out to Fish Creek where we were up on a board walk where the salmon come to spawn and the bears, ravens, wolves and eagles come to eat them. Just before we got there Bob spotted a black bear up on a rock outcropping on my side of the road so we stopped to watch her and then he spotted her cub. I took some good pictures of her and her cub before we went on to the bear viewing platform. There were a lot of people with binoculars and cameras with huge lenses watching some leaves move down by the water. I walked on down the boardwalk and when I got to the end there was an immature eagle flying around deciding to fish or not. Clicked a few pictures of him and went back to the beginning. Marvin and Dee saw what they thought was a weasel but the volunteers and ranger said it was probably a mink because they had a den near there and the weasel was usually seen in a different area but I did not see it so I don't know. Just after they left the black bear showed up and walked right under our feet and across a small path behind us so everyone shifted and then went into a small patch of woods right by a stream--again everyone shifted. I moved down toward where I thought he was going and finally he showed up for a short time. He was enjoying eating some berries and then don't know where he went. We left happy and went back to the coach.

Next morning,the 3rd, Dee and Marvin got up early as is their custom and went down to Fish Creek by about 6:30 and got to see the grizzly show up and eat some. Don't know what else they saw. We went up about 8 and saw nothing except a bunch of raucous ravens having a grand old time so we finally went back to the coach. Marvin and Dee had eaten b'fast in town and then went on to Salmon Glacier from there.

When we got back to the coach, I had gone with the wagon master and wife, we asked Barry and Monique if they wanted to go to Salmon Glacier and we set out. We stopped at Fish Creek but no bears so we went on. All this road is dirt and it was dusty. We had a lot of fun following a car tour guide paper, looking at flowers, glaciers and waterfalls. Barry got up on a hunk of glacier that had broken off on the right side of the road and we took a picture. We saw remains of mines, a tunnel entrance and exit and the exit had a huge chunk of ice in it. We arrived at the summit where we had a great view of Salmon Glacier but we decided to go on to find the tunnel and besides there was still road ahead of us. We probably went another 6 miles to the other glacier and from what we found out later we could have gone on farther because people are living back there in campers, etc. Besides it was getting later and we needed to turn back. The glaciers were huge and you never do see the beginning of them just the end. As we went back up to go back down we passed Barry's hunk of glacier and there was a guy there with a pickup and he was breaking hunks off with a shovel and putting them in about five of the 20 gal. plastic containers you buy at WalMart. We were heart broken.

We were not going to make it back for the briefing so we stopped to buy fish at "the bus" for Monique and put it on ice and then went into Hyder to cross the border back into B.C. and on to Stewart to find food. After having a great burger and fries while Bob had fries and putine which is brown gravy over them and he had previously stopped and had an ice cream sandwich we walked around town a little and talked to one of the locals. Stewart has a population of approx. 350 with some leaving in the winter. We stopped in a small grocery and Bob bought another ice cream. He hadn't eaten much earlier.

We finally arrived back at the coach and I went to pick raspberries that are wild in the park and then Bob had to quickly unhook the coach and go get gas in the coach before they closed. We came back, hooked up the car after we washed it and settled in. I am not caught up again.

A few days ago we lost one of our coaches because the man has bad knees and the long drives finally got to him and they went home. Today another coach left because they have to be in southwestern Utah by Friday. Tomorrow night will be Barry and Monique's last night with us because they are going on to Prince Rupert and stay in the area for a little while longer. We will miss them. They are fun to be around.

Before I go to bed I must tell you that the blog and our phones will be silent until the 8th or 9th because we will still be in Canada and our service is no longer effective. I will catch you up as soon as I can.

Monday, August 2, 2010

Travel to Dease Lake--Aug. 1

Up and ready to travel by 6:30 a.m. but went outside where others were gathered to learn that the forest service would have to do a fly over before they would open the road till about 7:30 so we would begin to pull out and get in line up by the road at 7 a.m. Bob was about the 2nd coach out. Our staging area was a very large parking lot at the top of the small hill. Just like the army--hurry up and wait. We waited until about 9 a.m and the line from the other way had come thru and now it was our turn. A few campers and fifth wheels were before us. When they were ready our tour master did not come up so Bob just went out and he led us most of the way thru the fire area. We caravaned thru this whole area for safety. We saw a couple of places where the fire was still burning slightly but mostly we were in smoke for a short distance and then that was all. When it was safe and we had a large turn out we pulled out and let our tour master go ahead and off we went. We were out of the smoke in about 6 miles.

Up here they usually clear back from the road a good ways and at one area it was all dirt beside the road and there was a black bear just walking along in the dirt. Later on we stopped at a jade store. They mine it, process it and have it made into things. This area mines 60 to 90 percent of the jade found in the world. They ship it all over the world. They had large hunks of it out in front and they would cut pieces off using diamond saw blades right in front of you.

After we arrived and set up at Dease Lake RV Park we had our briefing, fixed somores and doughboys again and had our white elephant exchange which was a lot of fun. We all had small paper bags with either the gift or a note and our leader read a story and we kept passing the bags to the left and right and across the circle. When finished everyone ended up with something. It was a lot of fun. Bob took our stuff and went back to the coach and then came back because he couldn't find our coach keys. After everyone fruitlessly scoured the area we had been standing in he remembered he had put them in the bag he had carried home. On to another day.

Travel Day to Northern Beaver Post--July 31

We pulled out from Skagway early again. We began by following the White Pass Railroad thru White Pass at least for some of the way. White Pass was the other route to the gold fields but much harder although the stampeders said that one was "hell" and the other was"damnation". They both killed a lot of people and on the White Pass about 3000 horses died on the trail. Eventually this was the route for the railroad.

We crossed the AK/Canada border again at Fraser and went past Carcross again and the turn bridge and turned onto Hwy. 8 to Tagish. We stopped at Teslin for lunch and a nap and shortly after saw a brown bear near the road. Had to stop for ice cream at Continental Divide Restaurant and then arrived at our destination--Baby Nugget RV Park. We had our briefing for the next day and ended the day. P. S. Forgot to mention that there is a forest fire that is 7 miles from us but the wind is blowing it away from us; however that leaves us in a bit of a pickle as to what tonight or tomorrow will bring. The good thing is that the communication area is located in the campground the some of their people are staying here. We are to be ready to move by 6:30am and to get into line to be escorted past the fire unless things change during the night. This was a long drive to here today and we certainly are hoping not to have to turn around and go back the way we came, but time will tell.

Sunday, August 1, 2010

Last day in Skagway--July 30

The staff prepared a breakfast for us and we helped. It was omelets in a zip lock bag and they turned out real good also with toast, juice and coffee and hot chocolate for Bob. After the breakfast we had our briefing concerning the next day's trip. Then we were on our own. Marvin and Dee were going to stay in but eventually they went at least to the Gold Rush Cemetery and I don't know where else. Bob was going to stay home but went off gallivanting with Ira. Marilyn, Monique and I(I drove) went into town for the 11 am tour of the town done by a ranger. Because many of the buildings in town are owned by the National Park Service and leased to business owners. Up here lots of things cooperatively function with city, state, federal and native. I don't know how they do it but I guess it works. Unfortunately we were too late to join that group and couldn't get another until 4pm; however they had a good movie that was definitely worth seeing. We've been hearing and seeing a lot concerning the gold rush and each time we see or hear something else it reinforces what we heard and invariably adds another piece to the puzzle so we get a more complete picture. After that we looked around the museum and bookstore(I didn't buy a book).

We ran into Bob and Ira and they had been out to a cemetery where a famous scallywag and con man (Jefferson Randolph"Soapy" Smith) was buried along with Frank Reid who he shot and was shot by Frank. In the process the Deputy Marshall who was waiting for his first child to be born was also shot and killed but died in the Dr's office where his wife gave birth. We wanted to see the cemetery which was on the way to Dyea where we were also going to take a tour at 2pm. We rushed back to the RV park to pick up Barry and drop off Marilyn so she and Bill could go to Dyea also in their car. It's confusing I know.

I drove Monique and Barry and we went to the cemetery first and saw the White Pass R.R. leave town. Up to the cemetery on the hill, found the graves and almost forgot about the waterfall which Bob had told us about so we practically ran the rest of the way up the hill to see that. Rushed back down the hill to get to Dyea and then Barry couldn't find his lens cap so while he went back toward the cemetery Monique found it in the car. Men can't locate anything!!!

It's only 8 miles to Dyea but the road is mostly dirt and bumpy in places and goes in and out around the side of the mountain next to the water and it's barely a two way road. We made it just by 2pm(I'm so good--poor car). Dyea was a native settlement(Tlinget natives) before it was invaded. They were traders originally--trading with the explorers coming into the area and then taking things over the Chilkoot Pass to other groups for others things. They were a very shrewd people.They also had slaves from other tribes. When the gold rush began they saw other ways of surviving and prospering. They became pack carriers for the stampeders but the women did the negotiating but when they got up to the very steep section of the trail they began to negotiate again. And since the prospectors had to take up about 1000lbs of stuff(enough to last a year) they didn't have much choice if they had the money. It also didn't take long for the natives to realize that paper money was no good so they would only take gold coin for gold dust or nuggets. At one time this town was bigger than Skagway but due to Skagway having a much better water port(deeper) it became the only town to remain. But at the time Dyea had a Military Reservation, a native village and the town.The military was a group of black soldiers who were to keep the peace and to show a U.S. presence in the area. We walked around where the town stood and the ranger showed us pictures and told us all about the town because nature has taken back it all. There was only boards left and one store front. It was very interesting to see how it started as meadows and now had gone back to forest. Six years after the gold rush there were only about a dozen people left in the area and they were farming. Harriet Pullen(a hotel owner) and she ran a farm to provide her food.

The glaciers had been here and receeded so the mountains with rounded tops were worn down by the glacier while the taller peaks were above the glacier. Also over the years since the glacier receeded the land has risen about 10 inches--like a sponge it rises after being flattened. There is much more but have to stop somewhere or it will be a book.

We rushed back into town in order to make our 4pm walking tour of downtown. The ranger was an older man and he did a great job. The land that Skagway was built on (160 acres) first belonged to a Capt. Moore who had been a ship's captain but when the stampeders started coming in droves they came into his port and just began to become squatters and take over so it became Mooresville. They just started building things on the land. Capt. Moore's philosophy was "never quit-look for opportunities" which he did. He had built a dock and so he charged people to use it to load and unload goods off the boats. He also built warehouses to store the 1000lbs. of stuff each stampeder had to take up the Chilkoot trail to his claim. He found a number of ways to make money off those who stole his land. Eventually it was renamed Skagway from a native name for it. Many women came here also with and without men. One of them was the Harriet Pullen, I mentioned earlier. She bought a wagon and worked as a teamster hauling stuff back and forth between small towns in the area and she also baked pies in the evenings and sold them. She did so well that eventually she bought a hotel in Dyea and ran it for a number of years while also owning a farm to produce food and milk for her customers in the hotel. We saw Capt. Moore's cabin dating back to 1887 and the house his daughter and family lived in as well as a cigar store and a warehouse. We also saw "Soapy" Smith's Parlor from which he ran his scams and bar(yet to be restored-but in progress). Skagway was a very lawless town. Jefferson Randolph"Soapy" Smith ran it with his minions for a few years until he was killed and then law and order did come to town.

As soon as the tour was over we set out to go to Northern Lights Pizza where Bob, Marvin and Dee were waiting. We were followed by probably another dozen people. The pizza was good. We stopped by the grocery with Barry and Monique and then went home.